Queen Emma’s Summer Palace

Queen Emma’s Summer Palace on the Pali Highway

I had originally planned to see it on last year’s trip to Hawaii, but I didn’t know how to get there using public transportation at that time. This year, I did additional research and found it involved a single bus transfer near the Iolani Palace. It turned out to be easy, as it was on the main line from downtown Honolulu over the mountains to Kailua.

After Martine’s ombrophobia (fear of rain) as exhibited during our visit to the Lyon Arboretum on the first full day of our trip, I made sure that she brought rain gear with her. At the Arboretum, it rained lightly on and off about thirty times during our visit; and I expected the same at Queen Emma’s Summer Palace, as it was also high in the hills. (Fortunately, we did not encounter any rainfall.)

In fact, that was its reason for existing. Honolulu is hot and humid most of the time, so King Kamehameha IV and his wife, Queen Emma would spend time at her hill “palace” (it was actually more of a house) because it was cooler there. We ourselves found the temperature to be considerably cooler than the coastal lowlands.

Unfortunately, King Kamehameha IV did not reign long before he joined his ancestors. Nor did the heir, Prince Albert Edward. As a widow, Queen Emma continued to live at the Summer Palace while her brother-in-law ruled as Kamehameha V.

The grounds are run by the Daughters of Hawai’i, who offer informative tours of the building.

Royal Palaces on American Soil

The Iolani Palace, Honolulu

Most Americans are not aware that there are at least three royal palaces in the Hawaiian Islands. Two of them are in the Honolulu area: the Iolani Palace downtown and Queen Emma’s Summer Palace on the Pali Highway. Martine and I have been to the Iolani Palace in 1996 and intend to revisit it on our upcoming trip to O’ahu along with Queen Emma’s Summer Palace.

Hawai’i was a perfectly viable kingdom when the United States annexed the islands in 1898. In the wake of the Spanish-American War, Americans were eager for new colonies; and there was already in place a willing cadre of American settlers willing to raise Old Glory. The reigning monarch, Queen Lili’uokalani was kept a prisoner in the Iolani Palace under suspicion of “treason,” namely for being loyal to her country.

Interior Queen Emma’s Summer Palace

The other palace is connected with a happier time, when Queen Emma (1836-1885), wife to King Kamehameha IV preferred the cooler temperatures of her hillside retreat, which today is a museum operated by the Daughters of Hawai’i. The same group operates a third royal palace on the Big Island of Hawai’i, the Hulihe’e Palace in Kailua-Kona.

In my reading in preparation for our trip, I am concentrating on the period between Captain Cook’s landing on the islands in 1778 and the American annexation in 1898. The memory of the royal families of Kamehameha and Kalakaua is still alive in the islands. There is even a Royal Mausoleum in Honolulu where most of the royal family is interred.