Tulip Mania

Tulips in Bloom at Descanso Gardens

This was absolutely the best time to visit Descanso Gardens in La Cañada-Flintridge: The tulips, lilacs, and camellias were all in bloom. Of the three, tulips are my favorites, followed by lilacs—mostly for their scent.

For this year, the tulip plantings were nowhere near as intensive as in previous years. One thing I noticed that was different was that the tulip garden area had cards indicating that certain plantings were in memory of some person known to the donor. My guess is that there weren’t as many donors, or volunteers, or employees as the Gardens management anticipated. Or whatever.

Still, what was there was indescribably beautiful. I spent an hour sitting on a bench in the shade just staring at the tulips or reading a book of Tibetan Buddhist teachings by Pema Chödrön. It was peaceful and sublime—even though there were visitors by the thousands to the Garden this afternoon.

Tulips are interesting to me not only because of their looks, but because there was a time almost 400 years ago when they impacted the economic history of Europe. I am talking about the tulip mania that gripped the Netherlands. According to Wikipedia, “At the peak of tulip mania, in February 1637, certain tulip bulbs sold for more than 10 times the annual income of a skilled artisan.” To this day, the term “tulip mania” is associated with an economic bubble that is not linked in any way to the actual intrinsic value of the item traded.

It also has an interesting footnote in literature. In 1850, Alexandre Dumas Père published a novel about the 17th century Dutch tulip fever entitled The Black Tulip. It is the fascinating story of a Dutchman who attempts to develop a black tulip during the period.

Is This Spring, Really?

Commemorating the First Day of Spring

Spring in Southern California is not as distinctive a season as it is back east, where it is associated with an end to snow and slush. All this week, the temperature has been near 100° Fahrenheit (37° Celsius), even near the beach. Further inland, heat records were broken with dismaying regularity.

The one distinctive spring weather pattern is associated with the terms “Marine Layer” and ”June Gloom.” The wind comes from the ocean and blows clouds inland. Tourists visiting Southern California in the spring always say that they always heard the sun is always shining here. In fact it is, but between the sun and the ground there are clouds and the weather tends to be cool.

I say “tends” because over the past few years, the pattern has been changing. There have been tropical heat waves in the winter, rain falling earlier and later than usual, and even an occasional cold snap. I have no idea where the weather is tending, whether California will become even more desert-like, or whether the rainy season will result in a wetter climate.

It’s always quite beautiful when we’ve had a good rainy season. The California Poppy Preserve in the Antelope Valley becomes full of wildfires. Even the Mohave Desert can appear to be carpeted with tiny, but utterly lovely wildflowers.

But then, all these climactic weather megatrends will not be clear until long after I am gone. All I know is that the weather is very different from when I first moved here in 1966. Will the San Andreas or Cascadia fault result in massive earthquakes? Will the Central Valley be flooded? Or will water become increasingly scarce and make the big cities of California unlivable? (My bet is on the latter.)

Letting It All Hang Out

Sea Lions at Marina Del Rey’s Chace Park

Today at Marina Del Rey’s Chace Park I was able to escape the heat for a couple of hours. The weatherman said that there would be the beginnings of an onshore flow (sea breeze), and he was right. It was utterly delightful, except that the coolness attracted a lot of young men who were loudly attesting to their street cred, making it difficult for me to read.

That’s all right, I walked to a bench in the shade at Stone Point, where the cool breeze that has not been present all week during the current heat wave cooled my head. Funny thing, as I returned to my parked car, I felt the wind die down and the temperature rise every hundred feet (30 meters). By the time I sat in my car, I felt I was in a sauna.

When the weather is unrelievedly hot, the thing to do is make like a lizard. But, since we are at the edge of the sea, make like a sea lion. I watched the sea lions for a few minutes, trying to determine whether they were in fact harbor seals. As soon as I heard one of them make the characteristic barking sound, I knew that they were in fact sea lions. The other identification is to check whether they have visible ears, but I wasn’t close enough to be 100% certain.

In any case, these sea lions were doing the right thing on a hot day.

Enter the Santa Ana Winds

As Predicted in Yesterday’s Blog Post

There are several ways that Mother Nature punishes Southern California for its (otherwise) mild climate:

  • Earthquakes, such as the giant temblors that hit the San Fernando Valley in 1971 and 1994
  • Wildfires
  • The Santa Ana Winds (sometimes called the Devil Winds)

The Santa Ana Winds and the wildfires are closely connected. In January 2025, the Pacific Palisades and Eaton fires were aided and abetted by dry wind gusts that reached up to 100 miles per hour (161 km per hour). I strongly suspect that earthquakes have a role to play in this devil’s brew of calamities, but I am at this point not sure exactly how.

According to Wikipedia, the Santa Ana Winds are what are called katabatic winds:

A katabatic wind (named from Ancient Greek κατάβασις (katabásis) ‘descent’) is a downslope wind caused by the flow of an elevated, high-density air mass into a lower-density air mass below. The spelling catabatic is also used. Since air density is strongly dependent on temperature, the high-density air mass is usually cooler, and the katabatic winds are relatively cool or cold.

In yesterday’s blog post, I stated that dry weather and gusty winds were predicted for today. The prediction was accurate. I sat around for much of the day sneezing and blowing my nose. Hopefully, the dry winds from the northeast will die down and I will be able to breathe normally.

The Stage to Lordsburg

Scene from John Ford’s Stagecoach (1939)

This morning. I watched John Ford’s Stagecoach for the nth time. It is a film I love, partly because it was the director’s first great Western and the film that made John Wayne a star. (Of course, Ford had been making Westerns since 1917, when he filmed Straight Shooting with Harry Carey, Senior.)

I particularly love the scenes at the beginning, when the full stagecoach is making its way with a cavalry escort to Apache Wells. The scenes were shot in Arizona’s Monument Valley, which Ford made famous with his films. Every one of the characters on the stagecoach is interesting and has his or her say, from John Wayne to Thomas Mitchell, John Carradine, George Bancroft, Berton Churchill, Andy Devine, to Claire Trevor and the lovely Louise Platt.

When the stagecoach is attacked by Apaches as it nears Lordsburg, the Indians are real Indians—mostly Navajos.

In the years to come, Ford made many more great westerns, films like My Darling Clementine (1946), Fort Apache and Three Godfathers (1948), She Wore a Yellow Ribbon (1949), Wagon Master and Rio Grande (1950), The Searchers (1956), Sergeant Rutledge (1960), Two Rode Together (1961), and The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance (1962).

John Ford received more best director Oscars than any one else, yet none of them were for a Western. One of those Westerns, The Searchers, is considered by many (including myself) to be the greatest film ever made. (Will I be watching the Oscars on March 15? Nope!)

I will continue watching John Ford’s Westerns again and again, and they will continue to amaze me.

Back from the Dead?

Preacher Aimee Semple McPherson (1890-1944)

Many’s the time I drove past the Angelus Temple on Glendale Boulevard and wondered about its founder, the late Aimee Semple McPherson. She regularly packed the five thousand seats of the temple with her fiery preaching. Then, suddenly, in 1926, she was reported missing after swimming in the Pacific at Venice Beach. Feared drowned, she was reported quite alive in Douglas, Arizona a month later under highly suspicious circumstances.

You can read the story of her re-emergence in this article from Arizona Highways magazine.

Whatever the reason for her disappearing act, she is one of the reasons that Southern California got such a squirrely reputation in the 1920s. That and Nathanael West’s The Day of the Locust and Evelyn Waugh’s The Loved One. I always wanted to read a biography of Aimee, but never got around to it. Maybe next Thursday, when I go to the Central Library for one of my Mindful Meditation sessions. (Wait! Does that make me sound like a squirrely Southern Californian?)

McPherson’s Angelus Temple in Echo Park

The Angelus Temple built for McPherson’s International Church of the Foursquare Gospel is situated just north of Echo Park Lake, which was the shooting location for a number of Laurel & Hardy two-reelers, most notably “Men O’War” (1929).

Within a few hundred feet is my favorite French restaurant in Los Angeles: Taix, pronounced “Tex.” It was founded in 1927, during Aimee’s “second act,” and is due to close forever on March 29 of this year.

Daffodils: Then and Now

Daffodils at Descanso Gardens on February 8

Two weeks ago, Martine and I visited Descanso Gardens in La Cañada-Flintridge. In full bloom were the camellias and the daffodils. The latter were in the Lilac Garden, which is still some weeks from coming into bloom.

This evening, I just finished reading an exceptional book which took the journals that Dorothy Wordsworth wrote when she lived with her poet brother William at Grasmere and interspersed them with William’s poems, The book, published by Penguin, is called Home at Grasmere: Extracts from the Journal of Dorothy Wordsworth and from the Poems of William Wordsworth. For instance, on April 15, 1802, Dorothy wrote:

When we were in the woods beyond Gowbarrow Park we saw a few daffodils close to the water-side. We fancied that the sea had floated the seeds ashore, and that the little colony had so sprung up. But as we went along there were more and yet more; and at last, under the boughs of the trees, we saw that there was a long belt of them along the shore, about the breadth of a country turnpike road. I never saw daffodils so beautiful. They grew among the mossy stones about and above them; some rested their heads upon these stones, as on a pillow, for weariness; and the rest tossed and reeled and danced, and seemed as if they verily laughed with the wind, that blew upon them over the lake; they looked so gay, ever glancing, ever changing. This wind blew directly over the lake to them. There was here and there a little knot, and a few stragglers higher up; but they were so few as not to disturb the simplicity, unity, and life of that one busy highway.

And here is the poem William wrote based on that walk he took with his sister:

The Daffodils

I wandered lonely as a cloud
That floats on high o’er vales and hills,
When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host, of golden daffodils;
Beside the lake, beneath the trees,
Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.

Continuous as the stars that shine
And twinkle on the milky way,
They stretched in never-ending line
Along the margin of a bay:
Ten thousand saw I at a glance,
Tossing their heads in sprightly dance.

The waves beside them danced; but they
Out-did the sparkling waves in glee:
A poet could not but be gay,
In such a jocund company:
I gazed—and gazed—but little thought
What wealth the show to me had brought:

For oft, when on my couch I lie
In vacant or in pensive mood,
They flash upon that inward eye
Which is the bliss of solitude;
And then my heart with pleasure fills,
And dances with the daffodils.

Mostly Botanical

Strange Cacti at L. A. Arboretum

Southern California owes a debt of gratitude to some of its past robber barons who have left some beautiful monuments behind them. I am thinking of Henry Huntington (Huntington Gardens), E. J. “Lucky” Baldwin (L. A. Arboretum), and Manchester Boddy (Descanso Gardens).

People usually come to Los Angeles to see Hollywood (a sad slum), the beaches (polluted), or Disneyland (outrageously expensive), but little do they think that the area’s botanical gardens are probably the most satisfying sights to be seen. While Martine and I could easily spend four hours tromping around the Arboretum, I could not imagine spending comparable time at any of the signature sights—except maybe Disneyland, if you are carrying an ample supply of gold bullion.

And only at the botanical gardens will you feel a sense of peace, surrounded by beauty and fresh air.

Trees at the Arboretum

Even if you don’t live in California, I urge you to check out the botanical gardens in your area. They are deserving of your support. And they are a great place to go with your family: Even the children I saw at the Arboretum appeared to be interested, even engaged.

Rain in the Offing

Statue of a Frog at the LA Arboretum

This being Valentine’s Day and facing a prediction of several days of rain, I took Martine to the Los Angeles Arboretum in Arcadia. Our last visit there was in 2017. As I looked at the many turtles basking on the shore of Baldwin Lake and the statue of a frog in the Meadowbrook section of the park, the thought of rain was not far from my thoughts. To my mind, turtles and frogs were symbols of wet weather to come.

A less mythical harbinger of rain were the fluffy stratus clouds I noticed as I looked up. To me, that meant that I should curl up with a good book and enjoy the storm, which the local weathermen are already referring to as an “atmospheric river.”

Stratus Clouds Over the Arboretum

Because I am not so mobile as Martine is, at several points along the trail I picked out a shady bench and finished reading Peter Harris’s excellent edition of Zen Poems. Meanwhile, Martine walked around and explored the many sections of the Arboretum. This way, we both got the most out of our visit.

Rain does not deter me as it used to. Now I see a rainy winter as not only a protection against raging wildfires, but a brush that paints the surrounding hills and mountains green and dots them with lovely wildflowers. Otherwise, Southern California takes on a desertlike tinge of brown and gives us hot summers smelling of burnt dust.

“Leaves of Three …”

Sign Warning of Poison Oak at Descanso Gardens

I remember the old Boy Scout saying, “Leaves of three, leave them be,” referring to how to recognize Poison Ivy and Poison Oak. As I sat on a bench overlooking the lake at Descanso Gardens, I noticed the sign, which was next to a thicket of highly suspicious plants, presumably poison oak.

It would have been tempting to touch one of the plants, but I have already been troubled by itchy legs attributable to my Type 2 Diabetes. So I just sat there for about half an hour waiting for Martine. She never came that way, so presumably she detoured onto another trail.

Descanso is riddled with trails going in all directions. That is one of the charms of the place, along with the large number of benches fronting scenic viewpoints. We eventually met at the Chinese garden, where I sat reading Zen Poems in a perfect location surrounded by camellias. Then we met yet again by a pond which used to have a dual fish fountain (see image below) years ago that we used to watch.

Fish Fountains at Descanso in 2007

Although the fish fountains are long gone, we still like to think about them. So it goes.