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Indiana Jones “Discovers” Machu Picchu

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Did You Know That Indy Was Based On Hiram Bingham III?

He had colonialism his his genes. The man who “discovered” Machu Picchu was the grandson of the New England Protestant missionary who forbade the Hawaiians to surf in the nude and who Christianized the islands. This same grandson trained to follow in his grandfather’s footsteps and make the peoples of Hawaii even more messed up than they already were.

Instead the younger Hiram decided to become an explorer and archeologist in Peru, where he was probably the first white man to visit Machu Picchu. He pretty much claimed the site as his life’s work, though he made a couple colossal error in judgment that tarnished his reputation: First, the site was not the same as Tampu Tocco, where the Incas under Manco Capac first emerged. And it certainly was not the same as Vilcabamba, where the Incas under Tupac Amaru fled for safety after Pizzaro’s Conquistadores laid waste to his kingdom. And it was not inhabited by the colorful “Virgins of the Sun.” Hiram liked the whole “lost cities” shtick and applied it everywhere his boots trod.

Missionary Grandpa Hiram Bingham I

That was only the beginning of Bingham’s trials and tribulations. Early on, the government of Peru decided they wanted control over what was dug up at their archeological sites. That is a reasonable request which is generally observed today; but back in the early days of 1911-1912, archeologists and their sponsoring stateside institutions wanted to do their own empire building. In Bingham’s case, he was bankrolled by Yale University and the National Geographic Society.

Bingham was a bit squirrely when it came to observing the Peruvian government’s reasonable restrictions and did his level best to sidestep them at every opportunity.

So the natural next step was for Hiram to go into politics, becoming in short order, lieutenant governor of Connecticut, governor of Connecticut, and Republican U.S. Senator.

Neolithic Orkney

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The Standing Stones of Stenness

If you are interested in the ancient Britons, I suppose you can go to Stonehenge and sidle up to the fence which keeps you from going anywhere near the ruins, in addition to putting the kibosh on your travel photography. But there are parts of Britain where you can go right up to the stones and even hug them without drawing the ire of the local sheriffs. I am thinking specifically of the Orkney Mainland (actually an island) off the northern tip of Scotland.

Above is a view of the Standing Stones of Stenness, which is within walking distance of the Ring of Brodgar, another stone circle. And not a fence in sight! And no ticket-takers either (at least when I was there).

There are two major points of interest in the chambered cairn at Maes Howe. It was constructed in 2500 BC. About 3,600 years later, Vikings broke in and covered the walls with graffiti in the form of Futharc runes. The graffiti was like today’s graffiti: If you want to be amused, click on this website.

The Passage into the Tomb

I haven’t even mentioned a whole neolithic village uncovered when the sands which protected Skara Brae blew away in a major windstorm, exposing houses, streets, even stone furniture. Check out some of these images.

These are just some of the reasons why the “Heart of Neolithic Orkney” is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Yet it gets relatively few visitors. One could fly to Kirkwall from Aberdeen, with a short stopover in Wick. Or one could take the train (if it still runs) to Thurso, taxi to Scrabster, and take the St. Ola ferry to Stromness.

I don’t guarantee the weather will be terrific: It rarely is in these parts. But I do guarantee you will be amazed at the sights. Also, the capital of Kirkwall has a 12th century Viking Cathedral, St. Magnus, whose first bishops were canonized as saints. In fact, the Orkneys were Viking before they became part of Scotland in 1472, and the culture is a Scottish/Scandinavian mix.

The islands even have a great poet: George Mackay Brown (1921-1996), whom I met in 1976. Read up on him if you’re interested in visiting this fascinating part of Scotland.

The Center of the Anasazi World

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Anasazi Pictographs at Chaco Canyon

I remember writing in yesterday’s post that I spent three consecutive vacations in New Mexico, where I just happened to fall in love with Hatch chiles. But what did I go to New Mexico to see? The answer could be expressed in two words: Chaco Canyon.

Insofar as I am concerned, the most incredible archaeological site in the United States could be found in Northwest New Mexico at the Chaco Canyon National Historical Park. At one point—between AD 900 and 1150—Chaco Canyon was like the Rome and the Vatican City of the Anasazi world. Within the park, there are literally hundreds of ruins, pictographs, and ceremonial roads within a relatively small area. One could approach it from U.S. 550 between Espanola and Farmington by turning onto a washboarded dirt road around the site of the former Nagheezi Trading Post, or via New Mexico 371 from Thoreau to Crownpoint, and then on New Mexico 9, once again getting on a washboarded dirt road.

The Largest and Most Spectacular Ruin: Pueblo Bonito

For three consecutive years, I camped at Gallo Wash with a large ice chest full of Hatch chiles and other edibles, getting my water from the only source in the park: The National Park Service Visitor Center.

There are other Anasazi ruins in the Southwest: I have been to Mesa Verde, Hovenweep, Navajo National Monument (Betatakin), Aztec, Salmon, Bandelier, and Canyon de Chelly. But it was only at Chaco that there seemed to be a large population, with multiple ruins in easy walking distance of one another. I even climbed the butte above Pueblo Bonito, running into a coiled rattlesnake that was a little discomfited at encountering me. Trust me, the discomfiture was mutual, but both of us managed to avoid harm.

Fajada Butte, Location of the Famed Sun Dagger

Entering the park from the Nagheezi Road, one encounters Fajada Butte (shown above), atop which there is a rock meant to project a downward-pointing dagger at sunrise during the Spring Equinox. I did not venture to climb the butte, as it is probably forbidden anyhow (and dangerous). Nearby to the right is Gallo Wash, where I camped.

If there is one place in the Southwest that I can recommend to tourists interested in archaeology, it would have to be Chaco Canyon.